Gunsmithing

Barrel Threading

Precision muzzle threading cut on a lathe and dialed concentric to the bore — so a silencer or muzzle device threads on straight and shoots straight. Every job comes back silencer-ready with a thread protector installed, and the price is quoted before the first chip is cut.

Prices, up front

Every bench service and what it costs, in one searchable list. The final number is confirmed before we touch your firearm.

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Concentric to the bore, not just the outside

Threads that are cut to the outside of the barrel instead of the bore are how you get a baffle strike or a can that shifts your point of impact. We indicate the bore on the lathe and cut the threads true to it, so the muzzle device or silencer sits square to the line the bullet actually travels. That concentricity is the whole reason to have a barrel threaded by a machinist instead of a drill press.

The muzzle is crowned or chamfered as part of the job so the thread start is clean and the crown is protected, and you get the firearm back with a thread protector installed so the threads aren't exposed until you mount something.

The right thread for your muzzle

We cut most popular thread pitches. The common ones cover most of what walks in — 1/2×28 for most .223/5.56 and 9mm, 7/16×28, and 5/8×24 for .30-caliber — but the correct thread depends on your barrel's caliber, contour, and what you're mounting. Tell us the firearm and the device or silencer, and we'll confirm the thread before we set up.

There has to be enough barrel and enough shoulder to thread safely. On a short or heavily contoured barrel we'll measure before committing, and if there isn't enough material we'll tell you rather than cut something that shouldn't be cut.

How a threading job runs here

Confirm thread & fit

We confirm the caliber, the correct thread pitch, and that the barrel has the length and shoulder to thread safely for what you're mounting.

Indicate the bore

The barrel is set up on the lathe and dialed in to the bore — not the outside diameter — so the threads run true to the path of the bullet.

Cut & crown

The threads are single-point cut to pitch and the muzzle is crowned or chamfered so the device seats square and the crown stays protected.

Fit, protect & return

We test-fit the thread, install a thread protector, and get the firearm back to you silencer-ready. If we're filing the can's Form 4, that continues on the NFA side.

Answers

Common questions

What does barrel threading cost?

Most thread-and-crown projects run $140–160, depending on the complexity of disassembly and reassembly — a barrel that has to come off on a press is more setup than one that doesn't. Tell us the firearm and what you're mounting and we'll give you a firm number before we start — thread protector and crown work included, not billed as extras.

Do you need my silencer to thread the barrel?

No — threading is cut to a standard pitch, so the can doesn't have to be here. We do want to know the silencer's thread and, ideally, its mounting system, so we cut the right pitch and can flag any alignment or bore-diameter concern before you mount a can to it.

Can you thread a barrel that's already short, or one with a muzzle device pinned on?

Yes — we de-pin and un-weld, chop, pin and weld, and everything in between, all in-house. One legal line: on a serialized firearm, we need to see an approved Form 1 or have the firearm in a pistol / stabilizing-brace configuration before we'll remove a pinned-and-welded device; a bare barrel or upper receiver on its own we'll simply cut to spec. Bring it in and we'll measure before we quote, and we'll tell you honestly if it's not a safe cut.

Before you decide

The background

What thread pitch does my barrel need?

The standard thread for your caliber, why bore diameter decides it, and why the thread is the cheap half of a job that lives or dies on concentricity.

Read the guide →

Elsewhere on the bench

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